Don’t Be Shy, Ask Us! The Garden Questions You’re Definitely Not Alone In Wondering

There’s no such thing as a silly question — especially not in the garden. Plants don’t come with instruction manuals (though they should), and every plant-parent deserves to feel confident before they start digging. So, whether you’re elbow-deep in potting soil or just trying to keep that one sad-looking fern alive, we’ve rounded up the top questions we hear on repeat — and answered them, Zone 5 style.

 

“How often do I water…?”

Ah, the golden question. Short answer? It depends. Longer answer? Here you go:

• Trees & Shrubs (newly planted): Water deeply every 2–3 days for the first few weeks, then taper off to once a week depending on rainfall. Forget shallow sprinkles — we want those roots to reach.
• Perennials: Water every few days when establishing. Once they’re comfy, once a week is usually enough.
• Annuals: They’re thirsty little things. Water daily during hot spells, especially containers.
• Tropicals/Houseplants: Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. And yes, your fiddle leaf fig will judge you if you overdo it.

Pro Tip: Use your finger as a moisture meter. It’s not high-tech, but it works.

“How and when do I prune my shrub?”

The “if I prune it, will it die?” fear is real. Let’s simplify:

• Hydrangeas:
  • Paniculatas (like 'Limelight') – Prune in late winter or early spring. They bloom on new wood.
  • Macrophyllas (like 'Endless Summer') – Prune right after flowering, or not at all unless you're just shaping.
• Lilacs: Right after they bloom. If you wait, you’re cutting off next year’s flowers.
• Weigela: After blooming in late spring/early summer. She’ll bounce back with another bloom if you’re lucky.
• Boxwood & Yew: Light shaping anytime, but major cuts in late spring or early summer. 

General Rule: If it blooms in spring, prune after flowering. If it blooms later in the season, prune in early spring.

 

“When can I plant this?”

In Georgina, timing is everything (hello, unpredictable frost dates).

• Trees & Shrubs: Any time you can dig a hole — meaning, if the ground isn't frozen you can plant. However, fall is the most ideal time to plant, as it gives them a head start in spring.
• Perennials: Spring to early fall is good.
• Fruit Trees: Any time you can dig a hole — meaning, if the ground isn't frozen you can plant. 
  
• Annuals & Veggies: After the last frost (around May 15–20 in Georgina, but watch the forecast!).
• Cold-hardy Veggies (like lettuce, kale, peas): You can start earlier in spring and again in late summer for fall harvest.

Bonus tip: Fall is also a great time to divide and move perennials!

“How close can I plant these together?”

We get it — you want a full, lush look yesterday. But crowding is not the answer.

• Shrubs: Check the mature width on the tag and give them room to breathe. Most need 3–6 feet spacing.
• Perennials: 12–18" apart is usually safe. Closer for groundcovers, further for big boys like hostas.
• Annuals: Go ahead and pack ‘em in like a salad bowl — they’re seasonal and thrive on tight group hugs. 

Tip: Crowding = less air flow = mildew and pests. Plant smarter, not tighter.

 

“What does full sun, part sun, part shade, and shade mean?”

Great question. This one confuses everyone.

• Full Sun: 6+ hours of direct sunlight per day. No cheating.
• Part Sun: 4–6 hours of sun — preferably morning sun.
• Part Shade: 3–4 hours of filtered light or dappled sun.
• Shade: Less than 3 hours of sun. Think woodland vibes.

Light can change throughout the season. What’s sunny in May might be shady in July once your tree leafs out.

“What fertilizer do I need for my…?”

If you’ve stared at a fertilizer wall and considered faking a phone call to escape, you’re not alone.

• Trees & Shrubs: Use a slow-release granular fertilizer, early spring. 15-8-15 or tree/shrub-specific blends work.
• Perennials: Balanced (like 7-14-14) in spring, or topdress with compost.
• Annuals: Water-soluble fertilizer every couple of weeks (20-20-20 or 15-30-15). They’re heavy feeders.
• Fruit Trees/Berries: Use fruit- or berry-specific fertilizer high in potassium (10-5-20). 
• Houseplants: Use a diluted liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly in spring/summer, less in winter (10-16-10).

Compost counts as fertilizer and your plants will love you for it. Just don’t overdo it with anything — more is not better.

 

“Why is this plant sticky/brown/spotted/weird?”

Translation: Something’s wrong. Usually culprits:

• Pests: Aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Check leaf undersides.
• Fungus: Powdery mildew or black spot. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, use natural fungicide.
• Overwatering: The #1 plant killer. Always check soil before watering.
• Underwatering: Crispy edges? Your plant's thirsty. 

Bring in a picture or sample (in a sealed bag, please). We’ll diagnose it like a plant ER.

“What’s an easy plant for beginners?”

We love a rookie gardener! Try:

• Indoors: Snake plant, pothos, ZZ plant — basically indestructible.
• Outdoors (flowers): Marigolds, geraniums, begonias, zinnias.
• Outdoors (perennials): Russian sage, hostas, black-eyed Susans, daylilies.
• Outdoors (shrubs): Hydrangeas, boxwoods, yews, spireas
• Edibles: Cherry tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, and herbs like basil and parsley. 

The easiest plant is the one you love and are excited to take care of. That’s half the battle won already.

 

“What do I do with my tropicals and houseplants in winter?”

Winter in Keswick isn’t exactly palm-tree-friendly. So if you have tropicals outdoors in summer (like hibiscus or palms), here’s the game plan:

• Bring them in before nights dip below 10°C (50°F).
• Inspect for pests (use insecticidal soap or neem oil).
• Gradually reduce light and water. Winter dormancy is normal.
• Group plants together indoors to boost humidity.

Bonus tip: Overwinter tender annuals like geraniums or mandevilla indoors in a bright window or dormant state in the basement.

“Do I need to mulch?”

YES. Yes, you do. Here’s why:

• Retains moisture (less watering for you — yay!)
• Regulates soil temperature
• Prevents weeds
• Feeds your soil (especially wood mulch that breaks down over time) 

Lay mulch about 2–3 inches thick. Keep it a few inches away from stems and trunks — plants need to breathe!

 

“How do I attract pollinators?”

Great question — your garden needs bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds more than ever.

• Plant native flowers like echinacea, bee balm, milkweed, black-eyed Susans.
• Avoid pesticides (they kill the good guys too).
• Add water (like a shallow dish with pebbles for bees).
• Let herbs flower — bees love basil and oregano blooms.

Bonus: Birds will follow the buffet too.

Final Thoughts from Your Friendly Garden Geeks

So there you have it, we hear these questions every day, and we’re always happy to answer them — with a smile and maybe some sarcasm and a plant pun or two. So if you’ve got questions, bring them on. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or you just realized plants need sunlight (no judgment), we’ve got the tools for your toolbox. 

Stop in, shoot us a message, or scroll our socials. At Georgina Garden Centre, we’ve got your back — and your backyard.

Happy gardening!